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Or, An Artist's Pilgrimage amongst Miners and Methodists.

By Henry Hawkins - 1897.

Sample text :-

' But fishing and fishing operations form but a portion of the many items of interest bound up with the village of Mousehole. The walk from Penzance— pleasant enough as regards the route—is, nevertheless, excessively tiring, especially during the 'dog days,' for the sun shines exceedingly fierce in West Cornwall at this time, and on the occasion in question it seemed to beat down with exceptional vehemence. As a result, on arriving at our destination our physical condition might appositely be described as ' wet without, but dry within,' a state of things that called for a halt and refreshment. On coining, therefore, face to face with such an unconventional ' travellers' rest' as the Keigwin Inn, it was partly necessity and partly curiosity that induced us to enter. Here we found liquor?, alcoholic and otherwise, were retailed. A strong aversion to the former, with but moderate appreciation of the latter, enabled us, with tolerable mental clearness, to make an inventory of all the goods, chattels, and embellishments tbe apartment contained. These were as quaintly primitive as the exterior, and had evidently done duty for generations. Upon inquiry we discovered the sign of the inn found its origin in one Jenkin Keigwin, who was killed by the Spaniards in 1595. The'means which put an end to his existence was a cannon-ball fired from one of their ships, which ball is still preserved and exhibited at a cottage near the inn. On the occasion, in question our Cornish countrymen failed to rise to the demand of the hour, not from any lack of courage, but owing to a stronger faith in an old prediction that
'Strangers shall land on the rock of Merlin,
Who shall burn Paul, Penzance, and Newlyn.'

In the year named this actually took place. Four Spanish vessels entered Mount's Bay and burned the three places mentioned, together with the church of Paul Church Town, to which parish Mousehole belongs. The Keigwins, or Kedgwins, appear to have frequently occupied a prominent place at different periods in the county history. When Charles I. and the Parliament were each striving for the mastery, we learn that the Parliamentary Admiral, when off Pendennis Castle, captured what he describes in his despatch as a ' dogger-boat with four guns, whereof one Kedgwin, of Penzane, was captain - notable and active knave against the parliament, and had the King's commission, but would now fain be a merchant-man, was ballasted with salt, and had divers letters for Pendennis Castle.'

Our inquiries naturally led us off into speculation, so that as we recalled those stirring times we wondered whether this identical' Captain of the dogger-boat: ever halted at the inn that bears his name, or regaled himself within the narrow limits of its parlour. In any other county but Cornwall we might have regarded the wall decorations of this little room as incongruous. Considerable space was allotted to orthodox show-cards, setting forth the medicinal virtues of certair liquors brewed from the fragrant waters of the Thames and Liffey. These, we need scarcely remark, occupied a legitimate position. But our interest and astonishment were still further aroused on finding the most prominent position in the room occupied by framed portraits of female Salvation Army officers. Verilj the ' publicans and sinners ' of Cornwall appear to have a religious side to their nature.

Mousehole rejoices in a flourishing Methodist society. Just prior to our last visit it had been made the centre of a great revival, the humble instrument being a blacksmith by trade, but whose power as an evangelist has been more or less felt and acknowledged throughout the length and breadth of the county. On the Sunday morning we felt it to be no small pleasure and privilege to associate our selves with the worshippers at Mousehole Chapel, a substantial and commodiou building. An earnest warmth appeared to characterise the entire service, togethe with a freedom from starch and conventional restraint, unfortunately so conspicu ous in certain Methodist quarters. Health, spiritual and physical, seemed to pervade the place as the congregation joined together in singing with fervour—

'Eternal depth of love divine,'

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